The Palace
At the Intersection of Two Empires
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Origins
Who built the lost palace?
Explore an interesting cast of characters
From its origins in the last years of Maharaja Ranjit Singh rule to the end of the Sikh Empire, the lost palace continued to serve its intended purpose as a palatial residence or bunga on the parkarma of the sacred pool at Amritsar. Its occupants would have had a spectacular view of the Darbar Sahib and the sacred pool of nectar. One of the most famous painting of the lost palace, August Schoeffts epic scene of Maharaja Ranjit Singh at Darbar Sahib was painted during this era.
With the end of the Sikh Empire and its annexation by the British in 1849, European artist and then photographers started appearing in Punjab and visiting Darbar Sahib at Amritsar, an area that only a handful had ever seen before during the time of the Sikh Empire. The 1850’s would see the very first photographs of Darbar Sahib by Felice Beato and the popular paintings of Darbar Sahib by artist William Carpenter. These early images of Darbar Sahib featuring the lost palace help provide a record of the lost palace before it disappeared from the pages of history and memory.
The loss of influence over Amritsar with British rule also ment that Sikhs lost control over the use of the lost palace. , The history of the lost palace would now take a drastic turn with the palace would now be symbolic of a new era of colonial government administration featuring a disregard for the religious and cultural sensitivities of the 'natives'.
The lost palace, located on the ‘pool of nectar’ at Amritsar, an area representing the spiritual heartland of the Sikh religion was now occupied by the Christian missionaries of the Amritsar Mission School [1]. Although Sikhs are well known for their religious tolerance, this invasion of the spiritual sanctity of the Darbar Sahib complex by an organization dedicated to the conversion of Sikhs to Christianity represented a complete lack of religious sensitivity by the British administrators.
In its final years things would take an even more bizarre turn as the lost palace would be used as a police station with a prison and court house.
The Kutwallee - This building, used as a prision and Court House, was built by Mr. Saunders, Collector of Umritser, and is one of the few English buildings in India which do not look out of place among their native neighbours. It is situated on the borders of the Tank, opposite the Holy Temple, and is constantly haunted by beggars; the applications for baksheesh, or bounty, being indeed most inconveniently, and through their importunity annoyingly, multiplied through all the neighbourhood of the Holy Tank. The deformities exhibited also to stimulate charity are very shocking.
Original Sketches in the Punjaub by a Lady
Dickinson Bros. London, ca. 1854
This account by the wife of a British officer stationed at Amritsar accompanies a detailed sketch by her of the lost palace. She erroneously attributes the construction of the lost palace to a British administrator, but we know from August Schoefft’s painting that the lost palace already existed in the time of Maharaja Sher Singh before British rule.
Why the British felt a need to convert a palace on the sacred pool of nectar into a police station is odd and difficult to explain. In the entire city of Amritsar could they not have chosen a more appropriate location rather than at the Sikh spiritual center of Darbar Sahib?
A travel account by William Knight of a visit to Darbar Sahib in October 1860 provides one of the last known references to the lost palace prior to its destruction.
October 22. - Out at four A.M. to explore the great durbar, or head-quarters of the Sikh religion in the Punjab. Entering through a highly decorated archway in the kotwalee, or police-station, we came upon an enormous tank, with steps descending into the water on all sides, and planted around with large and shady tree…After this we repaired to the kotwalee again, and, getting a pair of slippers in exchange for our boots, descended to the durbar and mingled with the crowd.
Diary of a Pedestrian in Cashmere and Thibet
William Henry Knight, London, 1863
Knights provides additional important information indicating that during this time period the palace served as one of the main entrances to the Darbar Sahib complex, complete with a depository for shoes.
Knight also mentions that the palace had a archway leading to the parkarma which was covered with decorative paintings. These paintings would likely have been portraits of the Gurus and scenes from Sikh history. Although now a police station, the paintings and the archway would have harkened back to an earlier time when the structure had served as a palace.
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Maharaja Ranjit Singh listening to the Granth being recited near the Golden Temple, Amritsar
August Schoefft, ca. 1840's - 1855, paint on paper, Princess Bamba Collection
In Schoefft's iconic and famous painting the lost palace dominates the background appearing on the left side of the painting. Schoefft's image is invaluable because of the high vantage point and angle that it is painted from, revealing a significant number of details not visible in other ground-level views of the lost palace.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
The simple rounded curves of the main palace arches on top of multiple columns contrast with the ornate arch of the building to the left of the palace. In the second archway from the left can be seen an soldier wearing a red coat standing at attention. Given his scale this indicated that the main arches were between 15 to 20 feet high. A large open second floor veranda extending the length of the building with doorways and arches. A group of people on the veranda enjoy a spectacular view. Another smaller veranda on a third floor is also visible higher up.
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Tank & Marble Causeway the Sikh Temple Amritsar
William Carpenter, ca. Feb 1854, paint on paper, Victoria & Albert Museum
An unusual view painted from the south edge of the parkarma, the lost palace almost seems to be the main subject of the painting. The major structures appearing in this view from left to right are the Akal Takht, the Darshani Deori gateway, the lost palace and Darbar Sahib.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
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Sacred Temple and Tank – Umritsir
From a Sketch by William Carpenter, Engraved by J.C. Armytage, ca. 1854, engraving, SSB Collection
Often found on posters and prints this is perhaps the most popular classic image of Darbar Sahib. Carpenter's view prominently features an excellent view of the full frontage of the lost palace immediately to the left of Darbar Sahib.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
The palace front façade but a beautiful and unusual intersection of linear and semi-circular curves. The elevation of the palace above the ground level of the parkarma can be seen with a series of steps from the parkarma leading up to the palace extend along the entire length of the palace. Only the first minaret column on the left edge of the palace has its dome on top intact. The second minaret column which is also visible in Schoeffts painting now appears flat on top indicating that its dome top may have collapsed. A third similar column on the right also no longer has a dome on top. Amritsar is in a known earthquake zone, which may explain the missing domes. In the great Kangra earthquake of April 1905, the domes on both Ramgharia Bunga towers collapsed.
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The Kutwalee from the borders of the Tank
Original Sketches in the Punjaub by a Lady, Dickinson Bros. London, ca. 1854, lithograph, SSB Collection
The artist of this view is anonymous and only identified as 'the wife of an Officer in the Queen's Service now with his regiment in India.' A very important image of the lost palace with the Dharshani Deori gateway on the left. With the end of the Sikh Empire and annexation of Punjab the lost palace (now called Kutwalee) was turned into a prison and Court House. An odd choice of use for such an important building within the presincts of the Darbar Sahib complex.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
The steps leading up to the palace have now been removed and a large wall constructed in its place. Given the palaces new use as a court house and prison, free access from the palace to the parkarma below was no longer necessary.
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Street - inside sacred tank area
Felice Beato, ca. 1858-1860, Albumen print, Victorial & Albert Museum
British photographer Felice Beato took the earliest known photographs of the Darbar Sahib complex in the late 1850's. This photograph of the Darshani Deori gateway and the Lachi Ber tree in front of it where Guru Arjan used to sit also shows a section of the lost palace behind and to the right edge of the frame. We are fortunate to have this important photographic evidence as the majority of photographs of the Darbar Sahib complex date to the late 1860's onwards, a time period when the lost palace had already been demolished by the British.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
Although only showing a partial view of the palace, Beto's photograph provides critical photographic evidence that the earlier paintings by Schoefft, Carpenter and a Lady were all accurate in providing correct renditions of the palaces unusual architecture and multi-columned grand arches.
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Panorama of the City of Umritsur (print 1 of 3)
Felice Beato, ca. 1858-1860, Albumen print, Canadian Centre for Architecture
British photographer Felice Beato took some of the earliest known photographs of the Darbar Sahib complex in the late 1850's. The lost palace can be seen in the north-west corner of the sacred tank, behind the large tree. We are fortunate to have this important photographic evidence as the majority of photographs of the Darbar Sahib complex date to the late 1860's onwards, a time period when the lost palace had already been demolished by the British.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
A large portion of the upper floors and three minaret towers defining the boundaries of the lost palace are clearly visible in this very rare photograph. This view provides invaluable details of the front and side of the palace not visible from the other side as depicted in August Schoeffts painting.
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Holy Sikh Tank & Golden Temple at Amritsur.
Felice Beato, ca. 1858-1860, Albumen print, Metropolitan Museum of Art
In another of the series of photographs at Darbar Sahib by photographer Felice Beato we see an aerial view of the Darbar Sahib complex taken from the Baba Atal tower. The entire lost palace is visible in this photograph and its majestic size and scale is breathtaking even in this distant view.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
This very rare image is the only known photograph showing the entire lost palace. The architectural details of the multi-storey palace are fully visible as are its courtyard and small wall separating it from the sacred pool of nectar. Looking at the size of the group of people standing in the courtyard near the columns, one can get a sense of the size and scale of the arched columns along the front face of the palace.
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The Golden Temple
ca. mid 19th century, paint on paper, Government Museum and Art Gallery, Chandigarh
An unusual view of the entire Darbar Sahib complex combining two dimensional and three dimensional perspectives. The lost palace appears as the largest structure of its kind on the entire parkarma surrounding the sacred pool.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
Notice that the white marble pavement stops in front of the palace. This correctly dates the painting as work on paving the Parkarma was a decades long project first started under Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1837, continued by his successors and then various Sikh administrators under British rule.
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Map of the Darbar Sahib and environs
ca. 19th century, paint on paper, Harry Mann Collection
An interesting and unusual plan view of the Darbar Sahib complex. The lost palace appears in the lower right hand side of the parkarma. Comparing this to the previous perspective view of the complex we can see that the entire parkarma has now been paved. This helps date this painting to the late 19th century. The artist likely copied an older painting showing existing structures including the lost palace, but updating the image by including the newly paved marble parkarma along the temple perimeter.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
Notice the courtyard to the right of the palace. In a 1836 French engraving which does not show the palace, this courtyard is shown extending the entire length of where the palace structure now appears in this view.
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Golden Temple at Amritsar Ivory Miniature
ca. 1860, gouache on ivory, Private Collection
A miniature painting only 60mm in diameter of Darbar Sahib also features the lost palace in the background. Among the last set of images of the palace prior to its demolition.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
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Vue de Lahore
L. Gregoire, Geographie generale physique, politique et economique, ca. 1876, woodcut engraving, SSB Collection
In a scene similar to August Schoeffts earlier epic painting of Maharaja Ranjit Singh we see the Darbar Sahib complex and lost palace from the same balcony portrayed years later as it would have appeared in the early 1860's.
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Closeup of previous image showing palace details.
Notice the incorrect scale that the artist has used in portraying the human figures on the parkarma foreground and background in relation to the palace.
Footnotes
1. The Golden Temple Past and Present
Madanjit Kaur, Guru Nanak Dev University Press, Amritsar, 1983, pg. 64